7490 -
Telephone: 727-345-5292 Catalog #22854, 5
& 6 FITS 1963-74
www.vbandp.com CORVETTES
READ
THOROUGHLY BEFORE BEGINNING!
A. SET-UP:
1. Raise vehicle and place on
stands. Consider that a large portion of
this project will require work under the steering linkage.
2.
A splitter should be used when separating suspension components (sometimes
called a “pickle-fork”). Other methods
of separating these components will cause damage and void the warranty.
3.
A gear puller is required to remove the pitman arm from the steering
box output shaft. Other methods of
removal can damage the drive splines and could cause a safety problem.
B.
Pump and Drive Assembly:
1. Clean and block and chase
threads (3/8-16) so that pump mounting brackets can be bolted flush to block.
2. Mount brackets to engine
torque bolts wo 20 ft/lbs, mount pulley to pump,
torque to 60 ft/lbs; install assembly on brackets, loosely.
3. Determine if the crankshaft
pulley already has a spare location that could be used for the power steering
pump belt (check alignment with a straight edge). If not, remove harmonic balancer bolt and
mount pump drive pulley (optional at extra cost) to crankshaft, re-install
harmonic balancer bolt and torque at 60ft/lbs.
4. Do not install power steering
drive belt at this time.
C.
Steering linkage
disassembly:
1. Remove and discard steering
shock absorber (if present) and associated brackets.
2. Separate tie-rods (190) and
pitman arm (3) from relay rod (20), use correct type splitter. Discard relay rod (note that relay rod supplied with kit differs from removed rod).
3. Remove original pitman arm
(3) from steering gear output shaft and discard (note that pitman arm supplied
with kit differs from removed part).
Steering
linkage installation:
1. Install new pitman arm (3)
supplied with kit, (splines are keyed to assure proper radial location),
install lock washer and nut, torque-retaining nut to 140 ft/lbs. NOTE: Do not turn steering wheel or wheels with
pitman arm removed.
2. Install new relay rod (20) to
tie rods (19), torque nut (1) to 35 ft/lbs and lock with cotter key (2).
3. Screw power steering control
valve (17) onto relay rod threads until valve bottoms; however, make sure that
tapered stud of valve assembly mates with pitman arm without binding (make sure
that no dirt enters valve). Install nut,
torque to 45 ft/lbs and secure with cotter key.
4. Torque control valve clamping
screws to 20 ft/lbs so that valve can no longer turn on relay rod threads.
5. Clean left front frame area
prior to mounting cylinder rod frame bracket (4). Install two bracket-mounting reinforcements
(5) through hole in frame and attach to bracket (4). Install lock washers (6) and nuts (7), torque
nuts to 45 ft/lbs. NOTE: In order to allow
power steering slave cylinder to move in and out, it will be necessary to
remove the hydraulic port plugs. It is
very important that during this operation dirt does not enter the cylinder.
6. Install power steering slave
cylinder (18), rod-end first, into bracket (4) make sure that inner washer (10)
and grommet (11) are installed on rod first.
Install spacer (12). Secure
cylinder body to relay rod (20) with nut (1), torque to 45 ft/lbs and lock with
cotter key (2). Secure cylinder rod to
frame bracket (4) using nut (8), torque to 25 ft/lbs and lock with cotter key
(9).
7. Install cylinder to valve
hoses (13) and (14) as shown in sketch.
Start nuts by hand to make sure that they are not “cross-threaded” in
the valve or cylinder housings.
8. Install pump to valve
hoses. Secure return hose to pump with
clamp. Fittings are sized to prevent
confusion; always start nuts by hand to prevent “cross-threading”.
9. Grease ball joint at power
steering valve, boot is vented to prevent over pressure.
10. Fill system with a good grade
of power steering fluid, or automatic transmission fluid “type A” bearing the
mark “AO-ATF” followed by a number and the suffix letter “A”. Check the system for leaks; repair as
required.
D.
Adjusting Valve and Bleeding
the System:
1.
Bleed power steering pump by turning the pulley backwards
(counter-clockwise as viewed from front) until air bubbles cease to appear.
2.
Tighten pump-mounting bolts, torque to 25 ft/lbs and install drive belt
and adjust tension until a ½-inch deflection is obtained with 5 lbs applied at
the center of the belt. Do not
overtighten best, since this will cause bearing overload.
3.
With power steering reservoir full and bled, start engine momentarily
and then shut off. Reservoir may be
empty, refill to correct level. Repeat
operation until reservoir level remains constant. CAUTION: Keep arms away from steering wheel;
occasionally, the wheel may start to turn by itself because the control valve
has not yet been centered. (Every
vehicle is slightly different and it is not possible to exactly preset all
valves at the factory).
4.
If centering is required, remove the metal cap on the end of the
control valve, marked “c” and adjust the centering by turning the screw (under
cap) while the engine is running at 1500/RPMs and the front wheels are off the
ground. Steering will move left or right
as the screw is adjusted. Once steering
remains straight, replace cap and continue to next step.
5.
Top-off reservoir, recheck for leaks, check for twisted hoses during
operation and reset if required.
6.
We recommend that the wheel alignment be checked and adjusted if no
longer in specifications.
E.
Trouble Shooting:
1.
A high-pitched noise at the extreme end of steering wheel travel
indicates a slipping drive belt, which requires tightening.
2.
A tendency for the car to steer in one direction (no hands on wheel)
indicates that the control valve requires further centering adjustment. This assumes that the front end has first
been properly re-aligned.
3.
Hydraulic fluid leaks are caused by the following:
A. Hose connections not
properly tightened, a nut at cylinder or valve may be
cross-threaded.
B dirt in the system, causing valve or cylinder leak.